What to Do in Gjirokastra: The Complete Guide to the Stone City.

The magic of Gjirokastra is architectural. This was an Ottoman trading city, and its wealth is evident in the stone-roofed houses and fortified towers that line the hills. Here's where to start.

1. Explore the Gjirokastra Castle

The castle is the heart of the city and the best thing to do here. This vast fortress — with roots stretching back to the 4th–5th centuries — has passed from empire to empire, each leaving its mark on the walls.

Inside is the city museum, one of the most comprehensive in Albania, tracing the country's history from prehistory, through the medieval era, to modern times. History buffs can easily spend two to three hours among the artifacts, clothing, and weaponry.

During World War II the castle served as a prison and strategic stronghold, and the corridor leading to the outer terrace displays Allied and captured artillery, including a preserved aircraft believed to have been shot down in Albania. Don’t miss the clock tower, added by Ali Pasha Tepelena in the early 19th century and now a symbol of the city — as well as the panoramic views over the valley from the promenade.

2. See the Museum of Weapons and Socialist Realism Art

For a small additional fee, the upper level of the castle houses an unexpected collection of socialist realist paintings — the state-sponsored artistic style that glorified the partisan fighters who liberated Albania from Nazi occupation — along with old rifles and heavy weaponry. Continue on and you’ll reach the old prison cells, whose walls still bear the names, prayers and messages of the prisoners who were once held here. In eerie silence.

3. Visit the Ethnographic Museum

Built on the site of the former family home of dictator Enver Hoxha, this four-story house is no homage to him. Rather, it is a careful recreation of a traditional 19th-century Gjirokastrian home, furnished with authentic household items, folk clothing, and kitchen utensils. It is the clearest window you will get into the life of a wealthy local family.

4. Go Underground in the Cold War Tunnel

Hidden beneath the city, this 800-meter-long bunker was secretly built as an emergency shelter during the communist-era fear of invasion. A short guided tour takes you through the decontamination room, generator room and air filtration rooms, past rotary telephones and rusty machinery. Cold, dark and truly terrifying — it takes you right into the paranoia of the time.

5. Enter the Zakat House

Built in 1811–1812, this three-story tower is one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture in Gjirokastra. It belonged to Beqir Zeko, an administrator of Ali Pasha, and its position in the Palorto neighborhood offers sweeping views over the valley. Inside: decorated ceilings, storage rooms, a cistern, and a panoramic balcony made for photography.

6. Visit the Skënduli House

Dating from the early 1700s and renovated in 1827, the Skënduli House is a stunning work of design — 64 windows, 40 doors, 12 rooms, 9 fireplaces, and 4 hammams. A member of the Skënduli family still accompanies visitors, sharing stories of daily life, gender roles, and celebrations during the Ottoman period.

7. Visit Kadare's House

Gjirokastra is the birthplace of Ismail Kadare, Albania’s most famous writer. He grew up in this 1799 house and later immortalized it in his novel Chronicle in Stone. Today, a cultural monument, it still houses family belongings — a must-see for anyone who loves literature or wants to see Kadare’s descriptions come to life.

8. Admire the Bazaar Mosque

The Bazaar Mosque was the only one of Gjirokastra's mosques to survive the regime's oppression of religion, gaining monument status in 1973. Beautifully positioned above the bazaar, its balcony offers magnificent views over the old city.

9. Shop at the Old Bazaar

No market town is complete without its bazaar, and Gjirokastra’s is a delight — dozens of shops lining the cobblestone streets selling hand-woven rugs, traditional clothing, stonework, and souvenirs. It’s the perfect place to slow down, watch local artisans at work, and sip a shot of raki in between.

10. Climb the Ali Pasha Bridge

For a break from the city, walk about 30 minutes out to Ali Pasha Bridge (Dunavat Bridge), a surviving part of the 19th-century aqueduct that once carried water to the citadel. The path passes by old houses before opening up to views of the valley, and the arched stone bridge — 16 feet high, 40 feet long — is a quiet, off-the-beaten-path spot for photos.